Formosan Days 2026

The last time I travelled to Taiwan — or flew anywhere, for that matter — was seven full years ago, back in the pre-COVID world of 2019. Much has changed since then, and so has my life.

Though some may feel uneasy amid growing political tensions with China, I finally found the stability in my personal life to return to my birthplace, this time with Chloe by my side.

I decided to maintain a diary for this journey, documenting the month I would spend abroad in May, the faces I would meet. With this focus, let’s see what awaits as I rediscover Taiwan in a new decade.

Day #01 | FRI — High Altitude, Low Comfort

God knows how long it’s been since I last flew Economy Class, but there I was among the peasantry on the night of my departure. To my surprise, the airline provided neither slippers nor toothbrushes for us common folk, and even bottled water was subject to strict restrictions.

As if to lift our moods in light of the dire conditions, some of the plane’s items were decorated with Pokémon favourites: Pikachu pillowcases, Squirtle paper cups, as well as Taiwanese stewardesses strutting around in Charizard aprons at 10,000 metres above sea level.

Nevertheless, nothing could make up for the absolute state of confinement within Economy Class. The seating was tight whichever way I turned, and I simply couldn’t sleep a wink for the entire flight. Several others, suffering the same fate, opted to kill the hours by binge-watching movies all night.

Despite the real challenges, Chloe demonstrated a few life hacks to make flying a better experience. She pre-selected seating in the very last row of our section, eliminating all disturbances from behind, while also allowing us to monitor toilet availability without having to get up.

Chloe also submitted special dietary requirements — not because she actually had any, but because doing so ensured her meals were served first according to standard airline procedure.

Sometimes, I feel like I’m dating peak efficiency personified.

Day #03 | SUN — We Meet Again, Always

I reunited with Grandma at church. As children of God, we shall always be found inside his house — this being a comforting truth, knowing that our time together on earth is limited.

On this very Sunday, the congregation at Renai Baptist Church pondered the rejection of King Saul after his disobedience, centred around this piercing rhetorical question:

Does the Lord delight in burnt offerings and sacrifices as much as in obeying the Lord?

— 1 Samuel 15:22 (NIV)

My main takeaway from the day was that God doesn’t seek our possessions so much as our hearts. And in the same way, we mustn’t desire the gifts of God more than God himself, for he has already given us what is most precious of all — his own heart, revealed through his only Son, worth infinitely more than anyone or anything else in the universe.

Following the morning service, we accompanied Grandma to her mature women’s fellowship group, where they ate together and shared what they had learned from the sermon. Putting her theological training to good use, Mum contributed extensively to the discussion.

Being the only boy there, I naturally received plenty of attention from all the aunties and grannies, one of whom couldn’t stop commenting on my youthful appearance.

On the way home, I witnessed firsthand the effects of Grandma’s ageing in the slowness of her steps and how easily she became fatigued. Mum mentioned that her deterioration accelerated noticeably over the past year. For someone who has loved walking and exercise all her life, this reality has been understandably difficult for Grandma to accept.

However, I give thanks unto God for his providence in sending Ruelyn, a Filipina helper now looking after Grandma full time. I was able to tell that she is a nurturing worker, possessing genuine patience and compassion for those who are frail.

As for music, Ruelyn enjoys the oldies — fitting for someone working in aged care, one might say.

Day #05 | TUE — Finding Every Chloe

The rain fell heavily today, but that didn’t stop Mum and me from taking a bumpy one-hour bus ride all the way to Taoyuan to visit Chloe and meet her family for the first time.

Upon arrival, Chloe’s parents greeted us at the door. Having hurried through the rain while furiously trying to preserve my freshly styled hair, I was caught off guard. As a result, I was much too flustered to deliver the first impression I had been imagining for days.

Regardless, we sat down and I gathered myself. Chloe’s father served us tea as her mother went into the kitchen to prepare dinner. Her older sister also joined us with her newborn daughter.

When it came time to eat, a lavish feast materialised before our very eyes. Chloe’s mother honoured us with a table full of Taiwanese delicacies, my favourites being drunken chicken and bamboo salad. We ate plenty — and then some.

With our bellies filled, Chloe took me stair-climbing. Their family home was more vertical than wide, spanning four levels plus an open rooftop. She guided me to the top floor, where one of two doors led into her bedroom. I stepped inside, and she showed me a few of her toys, the books on her shelf, and pieces of her artwork. After digging out an old photo album, we headed back downstairs.

Flipping through the old photos, I tried to distinguish Chloe from her twin sister, whom we’ve set up to meet next week back in Taipei. Guessing was fun and challenging, sometimes even for her family. In one instance, her father attempted to get a better look at a photo by spreading his fingers over it, as though working a tablet. Interestingly, I had seen Mum do this on laptops and TV screens before.

By the end of our little exercise, I had found every Chloe, save for one.

I am not a perfect boyfriend, but perhaps close enough!

Given the lengthy trip home, we called it a night before too long. Though it was a quiet first meeting, this marked a significant step for Chloe and me, and for our relationship.

Day #08 | FRI — The Moonlit Coda

This was the day we celebrated Grandma’s 91st birthday. Mum invited everyone to her apartment complex in Xinzhuang District, where she had reserved one of the elegant KTV rooms in the grand lobby for this occasion. We had the room from 4PM to 8PM, with fourteen people in attendance.

Our family members brought in special dishes, including pork hock noodles and smoked shark belly. Mum also planned additional finger food, vegetables, and desserts. The abundance was apparent, and yet there was a slight problem: the room provided no dinnerware or cutlery.

Therefore, we were tasked with going up to Mum’s place on the sixth floor to fetch various items. Aunty Penny and Ruelyn were already occupied with prepping, cooking, then plating up the food, while Chloe and I worked as waiters, making multiple trips up and down the elevator to carry and serve the dishes to the guests below.

I was bewildered by the logistics, for it felt like we were running a tiny restaurant, except the kitchen was five levels above the dining area, behind several security gates. And apart from basic tableware, we also hauled pots, containers, and even the kettle — pretty much half the kitchen.

By the time we finally got around to eating, more than an hour had slipped by. We scattered across the spacious room, enjoying the meal and each other’s company.

Uncle Jian Liu came over and asked me about cryptocurrency, so I laid out the fundamentals for him. He is a PhD-level professor and researcher who went to MIT, but a humble man, ever ready to learn. Nevertheless, it was interesting to find myself in a position to teach him a thing or two.

Uncle Hwai-en Chen, on the other hand, dived right into politics the moment he entered the space. He is a renowned filmmaker in Taiwan, an outspoken fella whose views are, shall we say, intriguing. Personally, I found him quite engaging. With his gregarious personality and sharp tongue, however, not everyone was all that comfortable with his ability to hijack a conversation, for better or worse. After all, every family gathering has one such uncle.

Meanwhile, Grandma spoke with Chloe, recounting stories from her distant past. I also met Scott, one of Mum’s classmates from LOGOS Evangelical Seminary. We saw eye-to-eye on many issues.

Deep into the third hour, the cakes made their appearance. We started by singing “Happy Birthday” for Grandma, but then proceeded to sing for everyone else in chronological order while waiting for people who needed to use the bathroom. Once they returned, we took our group photo.

You might recall that we rented a KTV room… so why haven’t I mentioned any karaoke activity?

Well, by the time everything else was done and we were ready to sing, it was already 7:55PM!

With such little time left, they settled on “The Moon Represents My Heart”, a Taiwanese classic from the 1970s about love that is steady and unchanging, like the moon’s brilliance night after night.

This song served as a harmonious coda to a busy evening, and perhaps to Grandma’s life as a whole. After nearly a century of ups and downs — beginning with World War II, no less — she has now been granted a season of peace and joy in her later years, as she rests in God’s enduring love.

Day #14 | THU — Familial Completion

By this stage, Chloe and I had met many of our family members on both sides, though one from each still eluded us during this trip to Taiwan… until today.

Yesterday, Dad flew in from Nanjing. His return was sudden amid the dental procedures he had been undergoing this month, thereby upending his schedule. That said, he made it in time to meet Chloe.

For lunch, we ate with my parents at Yiluyan, a unique hot pot restaurant within Zhongshan District that blends modern fine dining with an art gallery atmosphere. Paintings created by the owner were displayed on every wall, with warm lighting softening the space like a boutique-style lounge.

The four of us claimed a table beside a series of panels featuring personified Chinese zodiac animals. At the table, we would be served the meats of four of these animals: beef, lamb, chicken, and pork, along with other seafood and vegetables. There was no shortage of either variety or quality.

The chatter was calm, as though we were in a museum. Chloe asked Dad about life after retirement. He responded with a list of things he enjoys: reading books, watching films, and listening to music — relatable enough, for sure. He highlighted his love for Chinese culture, but also made sure to sprinkle in some disdain for the Communist Party of China.

When Chloe mentioned that she works for Pickles, the online auction marketplace for used vehicles, Dad spoke of his dream to drive a caravan across Australia on a road trip. No easy feat, to be honest.

Lunch concluded, and Dad headed home. Mum took us to Grandma’s apartment, where we chilled for a few hours before venturing out again for our evening session with Chloe’s twin sister, Nicky.

For dinner, we selected a restaurant called Amazing Duck, located on the basement level inside the Breeze shopping centre next to Taipei 101 in Xinyi District.

I had missed out on enjoying Peking duck on my birthday earlier this year. But with Chloe’s birthday only days away, I thought I would use the opportunity to make up for it. With Nicky included as well, twin birthdays called for a double portion, so we ordered a whole duck for the occasion.

Truth be told, the anticipation of meeting someone who is potentially the spitting image of your own girlfriend is both strange and nerve-racking. Upon seeing her, however, my unease was put to rest.

There were some resemblances between the sisters, of course. Yet in various ways, Nicky was very much her own person, whether in the shape of her facial features, her distinct voice, or even in the choice of headwear: a newsboy cap in lieu of the bucket hat that had become Chloe’s iconic style.

Like Chloe, Nicky is a graphic designer. She possesses her own artistic strengths, a singular prowess. Beyond drawing by hand, she is studying computer graphics to broaden her creative horizons.

As for her taste in music, Nicky noted a preference for alternative rock, citing Eskobar and Placebo. Frankly speaking, these choices felt true to her vibe.

The evening seemed to pass quickly while we quacked away in conversation between bites of duck. More talking was done than eating — a sign of being in superb company. We packed up and secured plenty of leftovers in the end, with one big takeaway box for each twin.

Day #15 | FRI — Scraping the Sky

In January, American climber Alex Honnold became the first man to free solo the iconic Taipei 101, towering at 508 metres. This historic feat was broadcast globally on Netflix, and it gave me a reason to visit the skyscraper — at least to check out the base from which he began his ascent.

When I got there with Chloe, we noticed stanchion barriers placed at every corner of the building, along with signs on the glass panels reading: “Do Not Climb!” It was evident from surface damage that tourists had tried scaling the facade for photo opportunities after the Netflix event.

I was there to have a photo taken too, and funnily enough, came across a man smoking at a corner where it was prohibited. So there we were — two rebels, smoking and climbing where we shouldn’t.

Since we weren’t actually going up the building, I took Chloe across the street and back to the Breeze shopping centre where we had eaten the night before, but this time to the upper levels.

We bought tickets to a novel attraction: the i-RIDE^© 5D Flying Cinema, featuring a huge dome screen and motion seating, with wind, mist, scent, and vibration elements for a fully immersive experience. Climbing isn’t the only way to scrape the sky, thankfully.

Different shows were on offer. We chose a trip to Changan, which transported us back to the golden age of the Tang Dynasty. Soaring above the imperial city, we absorbed its splendour, at times diving down and weaving through the architecture and its inhabitants for the thrill. As part of the package, we also dressed up in traditional clothing and played pitch-pot like a couple of aristocrats.

Chloe really enjoyed the ride, as she had never been on anything like it before. For me, I got curious about Chinese history and asked her a bunch of questions during dinner at the nearby Din Tai Fung. However, rehashing 4000 years of history while large crowds lined up outside the restaurant waiting for our table was probably not the best time to have such a discussion.

We had a lot of fun, though this was the final day I spent with Chloe in Taiwan.

Day #23 | SAT — Friendship in Pink

I paid a visit to the historic neighbourhood of Dadaocheng today with Nicky as my private tour guide. We spent the afternoon wandering along the bustling Dihua Street, exploring numerous little shops and eateries in a place where traces of the past linger in every brick and alleyway.

The day was very hot and humid, so our first stop would help cool us down. We squeezed into a tiny, crowded store to enjoy almond tofu soup with toppings like barley, beans, peanuts, and taro balls — incredibly refreshing, and it cost only one-fifth as much as Meet Fresh in Australia.

This beginning paved the way for a food trail. Nicky bought me some traditional pastry at a bakery, while I returned the gesture with some roasted squid from a street stall. But considering everything, the standout of the day was karasumi ice cream, awarded for its umami-rich flavour blending salty cured mullet roe with sweet, creamy dairy. What a lofty, fantastic fusion!

Continuing on, we arrived at the Dadaocheng Visitor Centre, which not only offers useful travel information and souvenirs for tourists, but also doubles as a mini cultural museum.

The rooms in this building recreate scenes from the Qing era through the Japanese colonial period, including a tea house, a Chinese medicine dispensary, a clothing store, as well as an old classroom. Traditional attire and accessories can also be rented here. We saw many ladies dressed up in qipao, taking part in photoshoots within these staged settings.

Nicky and I were comfortable enough in our modern threads. Notably, we were both sporting pink. She had on a pink top with a pink cap, while I wore my pink Stranger Things shirt (banned by Chloe), along with my faded pink hair. We didn’t mean to coordinate, but somehow it just happened.

Perhaps the matching colour helped us connect a little more. As we took a breather in a coffee shop, the conversation deepened. We talked about our family backgrounds, the struggles of growing up, and eventually about love and the prospect of marriage — or in my case, remarriage.

I felt at ease with her, sensing a kind of warmth and understanding that reminded me, in some ways, of what I have experienced with Chloe. All in all, I am super grateful to have fostered a meaningful rapport with my potential future twin sister-in-law.

When evening came around, we looked for a place for dinner. Since we had been eating and drinking for most of the day, food wasn’t the main deciding factor. We settled on Dadaocheng Poodle Café, where the duo of plush companions, Oppa and OMG, delighted guests with their size and fluffiness. They were just the perfect companions to wrap up a day of budding friendship.

Day #28 | THU — The Seventh Seat

Today, Taipei recorded its hottest May temperature in 130 years, soaring to 38.3°C days before the official arrival of summer. Unfazed by the heat — whether in life or in death — our family journeyed all the way to Sanzhi District to honour the departed through tomb-sweeping.

Lately, concerns about the afterlife have occupied my mind more than usual. My parents are nearing their 70s and are now thinking more seriously about the sizeable inheritance they will leave behind. Grandma, of course, is even further along the road, having already entered her 90s. Even for myself, youth has all but slipped away, while I learn to live as a middle-aged boy. Life is indeed short.

The existential musings stayed as Uncle Hwai-en drove me — together with Grandma, Aunty Penny, and my parents — to Fuyinshan (literal meaning: “Gospel Mountain”), a Christian cemetery where Grandpa and my great-grandparents are laid to rest.

Being the youngest present on this family excursion, I was tasked with sprucing up the headstones. There I was, bucket and rag in hand, splashing water over the surfaces before giving them a good, thorough wipe down. My voguish great-grandparents had their portraits embedded into the stone, and I felt like I was washing their faces. Grandpa, on the other hand, did not choose to remind the world of his handsome mug, but instead had Psalm 23:6 engraved beneath his final stats.

Once I was done cleaning the headstones, Mum and Aunty Penny offered up some fresh flowers. Forming a semi-circle, we sang “Amazing Grace” together, remembering Grandpa’s life in particular, followed by a prayer led by Mum. I was asked whether I would like to say a few words to Grandpa, but knowing that his spirit is already at rest with Jesus, I simply declared that there was no need, since there will be plenty of time to chat with him later.

As we were getting ready to leave, I began browsing neighbouring headstones. I noticed one where the husband had passed away sixteen years ago, but is still waiting on the wife, whose details were partially engraved, but not yet filled in with colour. A square had also been left empty for her profile picture beside his. I wondered how long this man had spent waiting for his wife even while he lived, that he must also carry his patience to the grave. Women, am I right?

The sun and the heat showed no sign of relenting. We soon took refuge at Sea Beans Restaurant, overlooking Tamsui River. During booking, however, Uncle reserved a table for seven instead of six. Seeing one chair unoccupied, the waitress asked if we would prefer to wait for the final guest before ordering food. For a moment, we were tempted to reply: “Grandpa is already here. Can’t you see?”

He will surely let out a hearty chuckle when I tell him this story the next time we see each other.

Day #29 | FRI — When Oxen Cross Paths

I had met many folks during my time in Taiwan, but there was yet another unexpected opportunity: one of my cousins (Uncle Hwai-en’s eldest daughter) had only just returned from working in Japan, and so we decided to spend some time together with Aunty Penny and Mum.

Aunty selected a classic coffee shop in the Daan District for us, as it doesn’t impose a time limit unto its patrons like other places do. We spent the afternoon there catching up and shooting the breeze. Mum and Aunty are two of the most easy-going people I know, so I dare say that our conversation flowed more smoothly than the beverages we ordered.

It had been nearly a decade since I last saw my cousin, back when she visited Australia on her own. She had since changed not only her Chinese name, but also her English one — from Janis to Iris.

Born exactly one zodiac cycle after me, Iris and I are both of Oxen origin. The difference feels more pronounced now, as she is in her late twenties and I have just stumbled into my forties.

While in Japan, a coworker asked about her zodiac year. Rather than saying “ushi” (ox), she replied “mushi” (insect). In a similar mishap, she also substituted “makura” for “maguro”, which left a bunch of colleagues wondering why someone had placed tuna on a sofa instead of a pillow.

Far beyond language challenges, Iris elaborated on the difficulty of obtaining permanent residency. With its low birthrate and ageing population, Japan needs skilled immigrants to boost the workforce. Even so, the Land of the Rising Sun is unlike many Western countries that have opened their borders without much vetting. Under Sanae Takaichi’s nationalistic leadership, Japan remains selective about who it welcomes as long-term residents, making it tricky for outsiders to put down lasting roots.

Drawing a relevant comparison, I showed Iris an infographic that outlines Chloe’s eight-year struggle to remain in Australia. In the end, perhaps marrying a local is still the path of least resistance.

When dinnertime was upon us, we found a yum cha joint nearby. No trolleys were pushed around, but we ordered from the menu. For me, the highlight was their bitter melon with salted egg.

We also talked about anime and TV shows. I was glad Iris recognised the Mikasa shirt I was wearing, and that she had binged Attack on Titan in one go, much like I did. Surprisingly, she took the same approach with Stranger Things, watching the series to practise her English.

Day #31 | SUN — A Month Toward Eternity

The end of May is nigh, and the time has come to say goodbye to Taiwan.

From looking back on my experiences overall, I am grateful for such a fruitful, memorable holiday. Without a doubt, I spent meaningful days with members of my family — I came, I saw, I connected.

Living in Taipei has been both rewarding and challenging. Let me first start with what I won’t miss:

➤ WEATHER: The heat and humidity in Taipei during May have been practically unbearable for me. The city’s geography forms a bowl-shaped basin that traps heat and moisture. A local compared the conditions to living inside a steamer. Sweating uncontrollably every day could have health benefits, but it is also very uncomfortable. I am relieved to make my escape before summer arrives.

➤ MOSQUITOES: There is something delicious about me that just attracts all sorts of bugs and bites. And in Taipei, the mosquitoes are vicious, stealthy, brutally poisonous, and definitely out to get me. Despite trying three types of insect sprays, I was bitten nearly twenty times on my arms and my legs, with each bump remaining maddeningly itchy for days on end. This put a real dent in my mood.

➤ TRAFFIC: Walking around in Taipei is not for the faint-hearted. Apart from the obvious main roads, many of the streets and lanes are narrow, and sidewalks are often obstructed by scooters, furniture, and other clutter. Seldom can one simply walk in a straight line; you must zigzag, sliding into hostile traffic and ducking aside in time. I got clipped by a car one day, and later almost flattened by a bus.

With the negatives out of the way, here are three things I will dearly miss:

➤ FOOD: When the stomach rumbles and the tongue craves a taste, Taipei is ever ready to satisfy. Whether it be restaurants, buffets, stalls, corner stores, or even just Maccas, everything tastes much better Formosan style, and at only a quarter of Sydney’s insane prices. I cannot emphasise enough how much quality and variety there are on this beautiful island with its beautiful food.

➤ CONVENIENCE: Sprawling with night markets, retail chains, wholesale giants, underground malls, and lifestyle hubs, Taipei has you covered with an extensive range of options for whatever you need. But above all, nothing beats the convenience stores, which rank first among all the cities in the world in terms of density, and they offer functionality far beyond a quick bite. You can pay bills and taxes, send and receive parcels, print documents, book transportation, and even buy tickets for concerts.

➤ SERVICE: Taiwanese people are a very friendly bunch, and this carries professionally into how they attend to customers with great care and helpfulness. My personal favourite is the hair wash service. Over the past month, I have been frequenting Showlin Beauty Salon twice a week to have my radiant mane shampooed and styled. The highlight is always the relaxing scalp massage included each time.

After a last Taiwanese supper with Mum, I left a hand-written card, thanking her for a fruitful holiday and encouraging her to conquer the coming heat: the summer weather and the relentless pressure from particular individuals close to her. May God be her sanctuary and strength.

On the flight back to Sydney, Jesus gave me a gentle nod through a movie I watched called Eternity. The comedy-drama explores an imagined afterlife where a woman must confront her first husband, who has waited 67 years for her — a premise that echoed thoughts I had since visiting the cemetery.